Maintaining the value of damaged leadlights
Increasing the value of old degraded ones

Repairs means fixing of localised damage -
the result of interaction with a cricket ball, say, or putting a shoulder against a window while removing furniture. Cracked and broken pieces of glass can be matched for colour and texture and replaced. Bulges can be flattened out, and damaged lead and solder joints can be replaced and repaired. Some repairs are able to be done in situ, but most require the panel to be removed to the workshop. If the panel faces the weather, it is usual to fill the gap with plywood or a sheet of plastic. The key factor in repairs is the time involved rather than the cost of materials. They are normally charged by the hour, including an allowance for materials.

 

Restoration is the more generalised treatment of leadlights that have become degraded through age. Lead came lasts for approximately 80 years, after which it becomes irreparably oxidised and must be replaced. Signs that a panel is in need of restoration include lead that has gone dull and powdery, a window that feels slack and rattly, dry falling-out putty, splits in the lead and cracked solder joints.
Re-leading a panel generally costs about the same as building a completely new panel to a similar design.
Steps in restoring a panel  
1

The panel to be copied.

   
2
A rubbing on paper is made of the design using a scrap of lead to trace the raised lines of the cames.
   
3
Going over the rubbing with a felt-tip Sharpie marker.
   

4

 

New pieces are cut to match the pattern.

If the glass from the original panel is to be kept, this is the point at which the old lead is carefully cut away.

   
5

The pattern is numbered as each piece is cut (or as each piece is removed from the web of old lead).

   
6

The numbered pieces are stacked in order. Old glass is given a scrub and a scrape to remove the grime and old putty before numbering and stacking, with extra markings to indicate alignment and direction of grain and texture
if necessary.

   
7
Leading up begins. Lengths of lead came are cut to size using a pair of flush-cutting lead nippers, and horseshoe nails hold everything in place.
   
8
Once assembled, the panel is soldered front and back . . .
   
9
. . . and the flux is washed off.
   
10
Putty is pushed under the cames to stiffen and waterproof the panel and lock the glass pieces firmly in place.
   
11
The panel is scrubbed with chalk powder to remove the oily putty residue. . .
   
12
. . . and a horseshoe nail is run around every line to give a crisp finish to the putty.
   
13
Stove-black polish is applied and buffed with a stiff bristle brush . . .
   
14
. . . .and the finished duplicate/restored panel is ready to be installed.
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